By Elizabeth David
Lengthy said because the proposal for such smooth masters as Julia baby and Claudia Roden, A booklet of Mediterranean Food is Elizabeth David's passionate mix of recipes, culinary lore, and frank speak. In bleak postwar nice Britain, whilst fundamentals have been rationed and clean nutrients a delusion, David set approximately to cheer herself --and her audience-- up with dishes from the south of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, and the center East. a few are luxurious, many are easy, such a lot are chic.
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Colonel Kenney-Herbert’s ‘twelve-inch fireproof china pan’ would be difficult to come by nowadays, but there are plenty of substitutes, and even heavy iron omelette pans can, with trouble, be found in England. ETIQUETTE Regarding the world of subtlety which can be infused into the serving of a dish of eggs, I cannot resist quoting here the lucid opinion of a French cook, as related by Gertrude Stein. ‘The dinner was cooked by Hélène. I must tell a little about Hélène. ‘Hélène had already been three years with Gertrude Stein and her brother.
It is better to make two of six than one of twelve eggs. Success is impossible if the vessel be too full. If using four eggs omit one white. ‘3. Three eggs mixed whole make a nice-sized omelette, quite the best for the beginner to commence with. ‘4. Use a proper utensil, rather shallow, with narrow, well-sloping sides; a twelve-inch fireproof china pan will be found excellent; see that it is clean and quite dry. ‘5. Do not overdo the amount of butter that you use for the frying – enough to lubricate the pan evenly to the extent of a quarter of an inch is sufficient.
In a basin beat up 2 eggs and the juice of a lemon. Add a little boiling broth to the eggs in the basin, spoon by spoon, stirring all the time. Add this to the rest of the broth and stir for a few minutes over a very slow fire. SOUPE CATALANE 3 large onions, 2 oz chopped ham or bacon, 1 glass white wine, 1 small stick celery, 3 tomatoes, 2 potatoes, 2 egg yolks, 3 pints stock or water, thyme, parsley, a pinch of nutmeg. Slice the onions thinly and brown them in olive oil or bacon fat in the pan in which you are going to cook the soup.
A Book of Mediterranean Food by Elizabeth David